Relax. It’s Just Life

A very wise man once told me, “Laugh. Because if you don’t, you’re dead”. So to set the stage, the photo above has on the right, legendary craftsmen and waterman Bing Copeland who founded Bing Surfboards. On the left, the Bull himself, Greg Noll. These two single handedly and unintentionally, started the surfing industry in California in the early to mid 60’s, which eventually took the world by storm. But before all that they were simple childhood friends who loved the ocean.

Surfing and chasing girls down at the Manhattan Beach pier while riding the coat tails of the mythic Dale Velzy summed up their childhood. As they got older and began to feel the social pressures of getting a job and “making something of themselves”, they decided to start shaping surfboards for one reason - “to keep from getting a real job on the other side of Sepulveda”, as Bing puts it. They dedicated 10 years to board building out of a sleepy little town called Hermosa Beach, which eventually became the epicenter for board manufacturing worldwide. But just as soon as it came, they both left. Bing to Idaho and Greg to a small fishing town on the California Oregon border. And that was that. Of course both brands are alive and well today, but as far as Greg and Bing being in the middle of it all, they preferred otherwise. Off to different parts of the country both tucked back in to the secluded lifestyle each carved out for themselves as an escape from the attention the surf industry brought.

Almost 60 years later we reconnected the childhood friends back in the town they grew up in and where the surf industry spawned out of. I remember going down to meet both of them for breakfast. We had an event that evening and film premiere to celebrate Bing’s 60 years in business, so I wanted to talk them through the whole evening to minimize any surprises. At 82 and 83 years you appreciate having as few surprises as possible in your day.

As I was driving to meet them, I couldn’t help but think what a couple 80 year old men would have to say to one another after not seeing each other for over 60 years.

Just then I got a call that both were a little tired from the flight the night before. Greg had a bum leg and Bing was assigned to the wrong room and didn’t sleep too well. Oh no. This could be bad, I thought. I had visions of the table of 2 you peep over while out for dinner who literally sit there and say not a word the entire time. It’s so uneasy to watch. Have I created a similar situation between two surf icons? What on earth are these 80+ year old men going to talk about after not talking for 60+ years??

When I parked my car I immediately had an eye shot of their table and felt a bit of a pressure valve release because conversation was already underway and I could see the ping pong back and forth across the table. As I was walking up and got closer I could begin to make out the dialogue.

Boobs.

Ass.

Drinkin.

Fighting.

What? Not only did they have plenty to talk about, but it was not what you would have expected either. I found myself beginning to ease in to my chair as I watched and listened. A carefree back and forth amongst friends recalling a time of warm sand, sunburned skin, practical jokes and bitchin boards. Those memories were all still so vivd. They were all still in there and you could tell both Greg and Bing have held on to them tightly for the last 60 years and somehow we were the ones who got to benefit from the reshare.

Another observation - both Greg or Bing have every right to puff out their chest and flex any one of their life accomplishments at any time. Greg basically pioneered big wave surfing and Bing has done things like introduced surfing to New Zealand. Both invested only 10 years in to board manufacturing in the early 60’s, created an industry and then walked. My over zealous and inquisitive mind couldn’t understand it. Walking from it all in it’s height? Whenever I asked about how they can explain such a thing, it was almost like they would avoid the answer. Or be uninterested in it. The conversation always would go back to….

Dirty jokes

Bitchin surfboards

Cute girls

At one point The Bull dismissed one of my overly inquisitive questions entirely because he was just more curious if I ever watched Sponge Bob. “Oh shit Jared, you’ve never watched Sponge Bob? For crying out loud, he’s the funniest son of a bitch goin”. I exhaled. Eased back in my chair and let this ride go where it was already headed. Back to no sunscreen, beach camping, bitchin girls, and sponge bob. It was beautiful.

Somehow Greg and Bing have figured it out. It was a joy to simply be in their presence and watch the effortless back and forth. Why did I think this would go any other way? Maybe Greg and Bing’s carefree, adolescent joys have come with trial and error over 80+ years, or maybe it’s something they’ve always possessed. It’s hard to put your finger on, but its like they have conceded to this wild ride called life. Life goes up, down, and has all sorts of sharp turns. We get to drive, but no one really knows where it’s all going anyways, so may as well let go of the wheel from time to time and laugh at the things you encounter along the way. Then protect those things. Fight to keep them close and begin to move your shiny life resume down the priority scale. I think both the guys would tell you, that shit takes care of itself anyways. Besides, it won’t be what you want to talk about with your friends 60 years later anyways. You’ll wanna tell dirty jokes.